North of Esperance

Inland, where the woodlands begin.

North of Esperance Kepa Kurl, the Coolgardie-Esperance Highway heads inland through farmland and bush towards Norseman and the Goldfields. If you're driving in from the north or across the Nullarbor, this is your way in, and if you've flown in, Esperance Airport at Gibson means you've already started here.

Close to Esperance, Gibson has a wildlife park, and an arboretum that makes an easy wildflower walk in spring. Further up the highway, the wheatbelt towns of Grass Patch and Salmon Gums are useful places to stop and stretch your legs. And for travellers with time for a detour, Peak Charles National Park, 174km north-west via Salmon Gums, rises out of the Great Western Woodlands, a very different landscape from the coast (4WD recommended). Services thin out the further north you go, so fuel up and stock up whenever you can.

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    STOKES NATIONAL PARK Mt Ridley Salmon Gums 106km from EsperancePeak Charles 170km from Esperance CAPE LE GRAND NATIONAL PARK N E S W Coolgardie Esperance Highway Esperance Gibson Scaddan Grass Patch

    Gibson

    Just north of Esperance on the Coolgardie-Esperance Highway, Gibson is an easy half-day outing, and a good one to pair with a stop on your way in or out.

    Helms Arboretum, 17km from Esperance, is home to 412 species of native and introduced trees planted in the 1970s. In spring, look for Spider, Enamel, Cowslip and Donkey Orchids scattered through the reserve. It's one of the closest wildflower walks to Esperance, and a quiet, shaded spot to stretch your legs. For more spots like it, see Wildflowers.

    At the Esperance Bird and Animal Park, kids can meet the animals before refuelling at the café, making it a favourite on a family day out. For more ideas, see the Family-Friendly Esperance itinerary.

    Help keep these places as you found them: stay on marked trails, clean soil off your shoes to help stop the spread of dieback, and leave wildflowers where they grow. Dogs aren't permitted at Helms Arboretum.

    Helms Arboretum
    mt ridley

    Mount Ridley (Marbeleerup)

    About 71km from Esperance via Dempster Road, Mount Ridley is a granite outcrop with sweeping views from the summit. In spring, wildflowers line the road in, and the granite is home to its own specialists: orchids, hakeas, Borya, allocasuarinas and cypress pines. See a mini wave rock and other fascinating rock formations. A 4WD is recommended.

    Marbeleerup is a special place to the Wudjari Nyungar people, so please treat it with respect. Stay on the track, take your rubbish with you, and leave the granite and its plants as you found them. Dogs aren't permitted.

    Grass Patch and Salmon Gums

    Heading inland towards Norseman, the Coolgardie-Esperance Highway runs through the wheatbelt towns of Grass Patch and Salmon Gums.

    This is farm country, and from July to October the paddocks either side of the highway turn vibrant shades of green and yellow. Along the way, keep an eye out for the intriguing landscapes of small lakes, sometimes called rainbow lakes for the way their colours shift through the year.

    Grass Patch, 79km north of Esperance, is a small farming town that takes its name from a nearby farm. Settled around 1896, the farm was known for its bountiful crops and good grass. The Grass Patch Post Office and Store, a quaint little building, makes a good excuse to pull over and stretch your legs. It only opens for limited hours around the middle of the day. Further up the highway, Salmon Gums is 106km north of Esperance. Both towns have a caravan park, so they make useful stops if you're breaking the drive to or from the Goldfields, or taking the inland route rather than following the coast.

    In Salmon Gums, the Salmon Gums Community Caravan Park has an outdoor camp kitchen and laundry facilities, and the Salmon Gums Hotel sits right across the road. It has hotel rooms if you'd rather not camp, and pub meals such as fish and chips, steak or parmy, a welcome stop after a long stretch of highway. Nearby, Arthur Guest Memorial Park has a public toilet, with hot showers close by (pay by donation), handy for a freshen-up on the road. And if you'd like to break the journey with a round of golf, there's the Salmon Gums Golf Club.

    Salmon Gums is also your turn-off for Peak Charles National Park. Fill up the tank and the water containers either in Esperance or in Norseman, as there are no services in the park.

    If you're crossing the Nullarbor, head to Esperance via Norseman. The Balladonia Track is not recommended.

    Peak Charles

    Peak Charles National Park

    Inland from the coast, 174km north-west of Esperance via Salmon Gums, a huge island of ancient orange granite rises from a landscape as flat as a pancake. Peak Charles is visible for more than 50 kilometres in every direction, and sits within the Great Western Woodlands, the largest remaining area of Mediterranean woodland on earth.

    It's a place for self-sufficient travellers, keen hikers and experienced climbers. The summit walk runs in three stages, so you can turn back at whichever point suits your experience, and the final climb to the summit is for advanced bushwalkers only. In spring, more than 30 orchid species have been recorded on the slopes, and at night, far from city lights, the skies are full of stars.

    Once you turn off the highway, the final 21.3km into the park is unsealed, with some very rough sections. Depending on road conditions, a 4WD is recommended. There's no park entry fee, and the campground at the foot of the granite is free, basic and first come, first served. Dogs aren't permitted in national parks. For everything you need to plan a visit, see Peak Charles National Park.

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    Frequently Asked Questions

    How far is Peak Charles National Park from Esperance?

    It’s 174km north-west of Esperance, via Salmon Gums. The last 21.3km is unsealed, with some very rough sections (4WD recommended), so allow plenty of time.

    Do I need a 4WD to explore north of Esperance?

    No. Gibson, Grass Patch and Salmon Gums are all on the sealed Coolgardie-Esperance Highway. Depending on road conditions, a 4WD is recommended for Peak Charles, and for Mount Ridley.

    Where can I see wildflowers north of Esperance?

    Helms Arboretum, 17km from Esperance, has spring orchids and is one of the closest wildflower walks to Esperance. Mount Ridley has roadside wildflowers and granite specialists in spring, and more than 30 orchid species have been recorded at Peak Charles.

    Where can I camp or stay north of Esperance?

    The Esperance Bird and Animal Park in Gibson has two holiday units, Grass Patch and Salmon Gums each have a caravan park, the Salmon Gums Hotel has rooms, and there’s free, basic camping at Peak Charles National Park.

    Can I bring my dog?

    Dogs aren’t permitted in national parks, including Peak Charles, or at Helms Arboretum and Mount Ridley. Check pet policies with the caravan parks when you book.

    When is the best time to visit?

    Spring, when the wildflowers and orchids are out, and from July to October the farmland along the highway is green and yellow. Autumn is also comfortable, while summer can be very hot inland.